Small Counters, Strong Opinions

There’s a certain kind of place we’ll always cross town for.

Where the counter is small but the opinions are strong.
Where the cheese is cut generously, the olives are marinated with intention, and the person behind the till knows exactly what you should be cooking tonight (even if you don’t).

Lately, we’ve been thinking about how many of these places are run by women.
Quietly shaping neighbourhood food culture. Loudly refusing shortcuts. Building something delicious, one regular at a time.

A few favourites from our grocery radar:

Brussels

Take Épicerie Horta in Forest. A neighbourhood deli with soul, run by Youdra Guerreiro, where organic produce meets Portuguese influences and everything feels carefully chosen. The kind of place where “just popping in” is never realistic.

Paris

In the 11th, MaMi Deli does Levantine baking and deli classics with confidence and warmth. Fresh breads, comforting flavours, and a space that feels instantly lived-in. High standards, zero stiffness.

New York City

Over in Brooklyn, Radio Bakery is run almost entirely by women and somehow manages to feel both effortlessly cool and deeply serious about pastry. A line out the door, flaky miracles on the counter, and a real sense of community baked in.

We love these places because they’re not just about food.
They’re about care. Craft. And doing things properly, even when it’s harder.

So next time you’re stocking up for the week, hosting friends, or just wandering home with a good excuse to buy something unnecessary and delicious, consider stopping by one of them.

We’ll be doing the same.
With our trolley, obviously.